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  • Restaurants & Bars
    Time Out New York / Issue 672 : Aug 13–19, 2008

    Meat wave

    For some of the city’s best porterhouses, strips and rib eyes, try thinking outside the steakhouse.

    By Jay Cheshes

    Photograph: Roxana Marroquin

    Morandi
    Morandi’s 40-ounce brontosaur porterhouse for two (pictured, $78) arrives presliced, Peter Luger–style, on an enormous white platter, with superrustic roasted rosemary potatoes and whole roasted garlic. A searing-hot grill supplies a crisp outer char and perfectly pink center to the prime Angus beef, from DeBragga and Spitler. It’s an impeccably fatty and succulent steak.211 Waverly Pl between Seventh Ave South and Charles St (212-627-7575)

    Loreley
    One of the best steak values in town, Loreley’s oversize 12-ounce boneless strip steak ($22) arrives juicy within and properly marked by the grill. Use the accompanying golden fries to sop up the drippings as they mix with the fragrant tarragon-shallot butter melting on top. Bonus: The prime cut of beef is organic.7 Rivington St between Bowery and Chrystie St (212-253-7077)

    Prune
    Prune’s char-grilled rib eye for two—32 ounces of prime Angus beef from DeBragga and Spitler, for $46—is so tender you can almost cut it with a fork. Accompanied by only a lemon wedge and a sprig of parsley (you’ll need to order your veggies à

    la carte), the gorgeously seasoned, extra-rich steak comes generously slathered with room-temperature herb butter, adding a sweet, creamy note to the melted fat already bathing the meat. 54 E 1st St between First and Second Aves (212-677-6221)

    Employees Only
    A regular at this glorified speakeasy, who gets his weekly carnivore fix digging into this impressive hunk of rich marbled meat, swears it’s the best steak in town. The seared 28-ounce rib eye ($38), an all-natural prime cut from Piccinini Brothers in Hell’s Kitchen, comes with a decadent side of potato gratin. It’s certainly beautifully meaty and perfectly cooked (and we love the condiment cornucopia—sliced jalapeños, Dijon mustard, coarse salt and a lemon wedge—that surrounds it). 510 Hudson St between Christopher and W 10th Sts (212-242-3021)

    Convivium Osteria
    A monster steak that’s also a monster deal, Convivium Osteria’s pristinely roasted 48-ounce rib eye ($72) will easily sate four normal appetites, despite being listed on the menu for two. Deftly seasoned and as tender as prime rib, the two-inch-thick beast, grass-fed beef from Wolfe’s Neck Farm in Maine, arrives on its own cutting board, along with a long blade for carving off slices. Herbed fries and a heap of endive-radicchio salad complete the feast. 68 Fifth Ave between Bergen St and St. Marks Pl, Park Slope, Brooklyn (718-857-1833)

    Gotham Bar and Grill
    Bathed in a rich bordelaise sauce and accompanied by onion rings as light as beignets, Gotham Bar & Grill’s toothsome blackened 13-ounce New York strip ($44) is two parts American comfort food and one part haute French cuisine. The rectangular steak—served with glazed baby carrots and marrow-mustard flan—is large but not overwhelming. Which means you’ll probably have room to tackle the soufflé for dessert. 12 E 12th St between Fifth Ave and University Pl (212-620-4020)


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    • 30661 Ken Wed, Aug 13, at 12:33pm
      I've always thought that the Gotham steak is one of the best in town. However, I don't believe that their off the menu Neiman Ranch cut at $75 is worth the subtle difference.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 30581 bob Wed, Aug 13, at 10:17am
      The steak at convivium is great, but with all the bone and fat, will hardly satisfy 2 good appetites, much less 4.

      Flag as inappropriate



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