Paris

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Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

3 av du Général-Eisenhower, 8th

Twelve years after it closed in November 1993, when a metal rivet fell from its roof, the magnificent grand nave of the Grand Palais has reopened in all its splendour, once more a gleaming, awe-inspiring masterpiece of belle époque glass and metal: 600 tonnes of steel, 15,000 square metres of glass and, beneath, a vast open space bordered by art nouveau curlicues, balconies and stairways.

Built for the Exposition Universelle of 1900, it was subsequently used for air shows, motor shows, book and antiques fairs, exhibitions and art salons. By the time work on its façade is finished in 2007, the refit will have cost €100 million; the only problem now is that, other than a vague plan from the ministry of culture to use it for ‘cultural and exceptional events’, no one quite knows what to do with it. So far there’s been no lack of takers: the pomp of Corelli’s globes, a light installation by Thierry Dreyfus and a DJ mix by Fred Sanchez for the Journées du Patrimoine; an art installation and Ferris wheel for FIAC; a Christmas fun fair; Art Paris and the glamour of Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent fashion shows.

These have been succeeded by a major French art show for summer 2006, and the Biennale des Antiquaires and part of FIAC programmed for the autumn. But without air-conditioning or sufficient heating, the palace gets hot in summer and cold in winter - and with no-one yet designated to run it, the Grand Palais could end up a beautiful but costly white elephant. Try to visit it while you’re here and hope someone has a brainwave soon.

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