Steer clear of Plaka’s tourist trap tavernas. For authentic mezze at reasonable prices, join local office workers at old-school Athinaikon (Themistokleous 2, 210 383 8485, closed Sun) or upmarket, innovative Ouzadiko (Karneadou 25-29, 210 729 5484, closed Sun, Mon). For Sunday lunch, hit Café Abyssinia (Platia Avyssinias, 210 321 7047, closed Mon) in Monastiraki flea market, where a lively local band accompanies hearty Mediterranean fare. The tables upstairs have spectacular views of the Acropolis. Eat some of Poseidon’s subjects at Milos (Vassilisis Sofias 46, 210 724 4400). We recommend the bream baked in a sea salt crust. The colourful, raucous Central Market along Athinas Street is great for gourmands.

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