West of the Rhône lies hot competition for the cultural limelight in the shape of the smaller city of Villeneuve-lès-Avignons (take bus 11 or the summer Bâteau Bus from allée de l’Oulle). Centred on the tenth-century Abbaye St-André, the city came into its own in 1307, when King Philippe le Bel decided it was a prime location for keeping an eye on papal goings-on across the river. Villeneuve-lès-Avignon offers some interesting architecture, a superb view and one particularly matchless work of art: the medieval Coronation of the Virgin by Enguerrand Quarton, in the Musée Pierre de Luxembourg (rue de la République, 04 90 27 49 66).

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