Most evenings start with a drink on the place de l’Horloge or around the place Pie. The Caves Breysse (41 rue des Teinturiers, 04 32 74 25 86) is a trendy wine bar, while a life-size zebra greets you at the boho student haunt Pub Z (58 rue Bonneterie, 04 90 85 42 84). Fashion-conscious Le Bokao’s (9 bis boulevard quai St-Lazare, 04 90 82 47 95; free entrance Wed-Fri) is a converted barn, with a big dancefloor and eclectic music. Something of a rarity in the region, Avignon also has a thriving gay scene; check out popular Le Cid Café (11 place de l’Horloge, 04 90 82 30 38) on the main square.

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