Avignon is not lacking in designer restaurants for well-heeled festival-goers, but it also has a fair number of pseudo-provençal offerings; the latter are very variable. The famous place de l’Horloge is lined with indifferent brasseries, where it is best to enjoy a glass of wine and people-watch before heading off elsewhere to dine.

Top hotel La Mirande (see below) has what is often considered to be Avignon’s best restaurant, offering fois gras, truffles and provençal delicacies. Aside from the eateries at the top hotels, Christian Etienne (10 rue de Mons, 04 90 86 16 50) is the city’s only high-flying gastronomic restaurant, with changing seasonal menus and a spectacular terrace. Much cheaper, but with remarkable cooking, is La Fourchette (17 rue Racine, 04 90 85 20 93, closed Sat, Sun); book well ahead. The celebrated Pourcel twins have done a mighty fine job of awakening Avignon to the ways of hip, urban, concept dining with La Compagnie des Comptoirs (83 rue Joseph Vernet, 04 90 85 99 04, www.lacompagniedescomptoirs.com).

The arty crowd heads off for the Woolloomooloo (16 bis rue des Teinturiers, 04 90 85 28 44) for world food, while the pick of the bunch on the place de l’Horloge is the self-consciously stylish Opéra Café (24 place de l’Horloge, 04 90 86 17 43).

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