Though roads are too few and traffic jammed, Bangkok is a car city so taxis (from B35; call surcharge B20 from hotlines 1681 or 1661) are essential, utilising plentiful expressways. Meanwhile, tuk-tuks (motorised rickshaws) have become a pricey, polluting novelty and motos (with drivers wearing colored vests) can cut through gridlock with sometimes daredevil tactics - but they are very handy.

The BTS SkyTrain is efficient though limited (fare B10-B40, passes B100/day, B280/3 days). It links to the river's Chao Phraya Expressboats (B10), the fast, fascinating way to the old town.

Cramped canal boats along stinking Khlong Saen Saeb are handy for nimble, dedicated urban explorers.

Bangkok's first subway system (just open) ought to transform the city. It runs from Hualamphong Station near Chinatown through busy Silom, Sukumvhit and Ratchadapisek roads all the way out past the Weekend Market in less than 30 minutes. It will link with the Sky Train near Asoke and integrate the cheap but labyrinthine bus network.

As for walking, pedestrians and the handicapped are poorly catered for and are a Quixotic curiosity to air-con accustomed Thais, though the older districts are pleasantly walkable.

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