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Rugged, charismatic Bastia, the commercial centre of Corsica, is a treat for all your senses. While imprisoned on Elba, Napoleon claimed he could find his native country by its lovely scent, which still greets Corsica’s summer visitors. The distinctive scent comes from the wild maquis shrubs that cover much of the coast, made up of a tangle of lavender, sage, thyme and other low-growing wild herbs. Throw in Casanis pastis, muscat from Patrimonio and soft white Brocciu cheese, and you have the aroma of modern-day Bastia.
An unpredictable, dramatic landscape surrounds Bastia’s baroque churches and the picturesque Vieux Port (Old Port), which has been left virtually unchanged for centuries. Crumbling houses painted in soft pastels with wrought-iron balconies add further atmosphere, and the mighty Genoese citadel dominates the town’s silhouette. But your most intense memories could well be gustatory and olfactory. Figatellu (fried sausages), prisutu (smoked ham) and migliaccilou (pancakes with goat’s cheese) are just a few hearty Corsican specialties. The best souvenir from Bastia is a local delicacy from the Saturday market at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, where haggling is part of the experience.
For a taste of contemporary Bastia, check out its cultural centre, Una Volta (Arcades du Théâtre, rue César Campinchi, 04 95 32 12 81, www.una-volta.org), which is open all year round. If you’re keen to explore more of the island, Plaisance Service (Toga marina, 04 95 34 14 14, www.plaisance-location.com) hires out motorboats, yachts and scooters. But Bastia alone is worth all your attention. Napoleon wasn’t just being patriotic when he claimed that everything on Corsica was ‘better and more beautiful than anywhere else’ – and Bastia is the very best of Corsica.
• Tourist information: place Saint-Nicolas (04 95 54 20 40, www.bastia-tourisme.com).
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