The suspicious, fearful Corsicans of the north preferred to forage safely inland for their food rather than develop a taste for seafood, so sausages, cheese and ham are a mainstay of the Corsican menu, which still changes every season. Don’t forget to kick off your meal with a Cap Corse apéritif.

The best place to sample traditional Corsican food, and to catch the old revolutionary fervour, is U Tianu (4 rue Mgr Rigo, 04 95 31 36 67), a superb local hostelry tucked down a side street off place de l’Hôtel de Ville. Locals tuck into heaving plates of charcuterie and vegetable soups in an upstairs hideaway decked out in nationalist memorabilia. Food without politics is served at the upscale A Casarella (6 rue Sainte-Croix, 04 95 32 02 32), which is renowned for its imaginative French-Corsican food.

Of the restaurants around Vieux Port vying for tourist custom, Quai Sud (2 rue de la Marine, 04 95 58 23 47) is as good as any. The ones round the corner on quai des Martyrs, nearer the Nouveau Port, are cheaper. Try Chez Mémé (04 95 31 44 12) or Cote Quai (04 95 58 20 65) for seafood.

The local beer, Pietra, is an unusual amber brew. Daytime drinking is best on place Saint-Nicolas. By night, explore the narrow streets between the old and new ports. Le Penalty, on the corner of place de l’Hôtel de Ville and Stretta Mgr Rigo, attracts local musicians; nearby, the Pub Assunta (4 rue Fontaine Neuve, 04 95 34 11 40) features electronic sounds and sports TV. Despite its basic decor, Le Marina (5 rue Chanoine Leschi, 04 95 31 01 24, www.restaurant-lemarina.com) has a rather sophisticated kitchen and attentive service.

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