Techno exploded here in the 1990s. The scene is in constant flux, and there are many one-off events at special venues, so it’s a good idea to ask around. Follow the crowd and you shouldn’t go wrong. There are several excellent year-round clubs underneath the Kalemegdan Citadel, like Andergraund (Pariska 1A, 328 2526). The party ratchets up in the summer, when no one in town seems to sleep. More than a dozen boat clubs docked in New Belgrade are packed all night; you can pick your music and crowd. Exile (Savski kej, no phone) and Blaywatch (Kej Oslobodjenja Bb, 319 1228) are old standards.

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