Bolognese cuisine deserves all the praise showered on it. Butter and cream are more popular here than olive oil, and meat, especially pork, is celebrated. The city’s not called La Grassa, ‘the fat’, for nothing. There are hundreds of restaurants to choose from, ranging from the best Italy has to offer to fine family-owned trattorias. Standards are high, so to find one, just wander around and see what takes your fancy. Try Osteria de’ Poeti (via de’ Poeti 1B, 051 236 166), which offers all the Bolognese classics such as lasagne, tortelloni in brodo (in stock) and tagliatelle al ragù (meat sauce), and boasts a very good wine list. Rosteria Lucano (via Nazario Sauro 19b, 051 231 249) is an atmospheric, local that hasn’t changed in decades.

The aperitivo is the early evening pastime of the Italian bourgeoisie, who are treated to copious free snacks with their drinks at the chic Café de Paris (piazza del Francia 1C, 051 234 980), and both Rosa Rosae, on the main piazza Maggiore (2/D, 051 224 782), or at nearby via Clavature (18/B, 051 225 071). If you fancy learning the city’s culinary arts, head for La Vecchia Scuola (via Malvasia 49, 051 649 1576), where Alessandra Spisni will teach you the classics in her own kitchen.

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