For elegance, head to the golden triangle of cours de l’Intendance, allées de Tourny and cours Clemenceau. Here you’ll find pâtisserie Baillardran, whose sticky canelés and macaroons are a treat. Chartrons is packed with antique dealers along rue Notre Dame, while St-Michel church has a flea market out front. Finally there’s rue Ste Catherine, with many original items to be found along its tributaries and squares.

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