For local food (such as Himmel und Ääd, fried black pudding with potatoes and apple sauce) in touristic surroundings, visit Früh am Dom (Am Hof 12-18, 261 3211) or Malzmühle (Heumarkt 6, 21 01 17), with wooden benches and scenic paintings. For true local food and local character, head north of the station to the Weinhaus Vogel (Eigelstein 74, 139 9134); it’s pleasingly authentic and cheap, too.

Elsewhere you’ll find top-notch gastronomy and trendy Mediterranean cuisine. For the former, head to the panoramic 11th floor of the Hotel im Wasserturm (see below; closed Mon, Sun) for Hendrik Otto’s Michelin-starred masterpiece, La Vision. In Nippes, just north of the Ring, Paul’s Restaurant (Bülowstrasse 2, 766 839, www.pauls-restaurant.de, closed Mon) is another foodie destination. Be patient and queue at 4 Cani della Città (Benesis Strasse 61, 257 4085), the best fashionable Italian in town.

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