Dining in Dubrovnik often disappoints. Parallel to Stradun, Prijeko is lined with tourist restaurants of little character – and much the same can be said of most terrace establishments filling the open public spaces of the old town. A recently opened exception to the rule is the Vinaria Arsenal (Pred Dvorom, 321414), set between the old harbour and the redesigned gradskavana (Pred Dvorom, 321065), the former Gradska Kavana coffeehouse, now swish and with a lower-case name. The Arsenal – a winery, restaurant and cocktail bar – is a smart, well-priced alternative to the surrounding tourist traps. Either side of it on the harbour side are the contemporary Poklisar (Ribarnica 1, 322176), offering fish and pizzas with a sea view, and the Lokanda Peskarija (Ribarnica, 324750), serving simple local cuisine at hard-to-beat prices – hence the queues outside all summer.

A few lively cafés cluster around Buniceva Poljana behind the cathedral, the most famous of which is jazz bar Trubadur (No.2). The owner is a famous musician from seminal local pop band, the Dubrovacki Trubaduri, whose bar is plastered in sponsors’ logos. For more character and less marketing, head across Loza square to Zlatarska, where another band member runs the homely, quirky Libertina. For a jaw-dropping, text-your-mates-immediately afternoon cocktail, take the No.4 bus from the Pile Gate to its terminus at the five- star Hotel Dubrovnik Palace. Through the lobby is the Sunset Lounge, with a panoramic view of the Elaphite archipelago surrounded by idyllic sea – and happy hour (4-6pm).

[top]