Eating in Edinburgh has a number of different faces. There’s Scotland on a plate and, while some might sniff, if your visit will be incomplete without trying haggis and neeps, look out for tartan menus. Other restaurateurs are out to draw a discreet veil over the deep-fried Mars bars and chips with everything that Scotland is known for. In this field, investment has been unprecedented. There’s Michelin-starred Restaurant Martin Wishart (54 The Shore, 553 3557, www.martin-wishart.co.uk) and Vermilion, in the Scotsman Hotel (20 North Bridge, 556 5565, www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk), both offering high-flying dining. For the romantic gastronomic encounter look no further than the tapestries and candles of the Secret Garden (352 Castlehill, 225 5613, www.thewitchery.com).

Shopping relief can be had at Harvey Nichols’ Fourth Floor (30-34 St Andrew Square, 524 8388, www.harveynichols.com), while for ‘proper’ Scottish food there’s Haldanes (39A Albany Street, 556 8407, www.haldanesrestaurant.com).

Vegetarians have long been served by David Bann (56-58 St Mary’s Street, 556 5888, www.davidbann.com). Pub crawls mostly start on the Royal Mile, where there are some great boozers, including the tiny, packed and friendly Black Bo’s (57-61 Blackfriars Street, 557 6136). Ensign Ewart (521 Lawnmarket, 225 7440) is often packed with visitors seeking the authentic Scottish drinking experience, yet impressively there is still something authentic about the place.

Sandy Bell’s (25 Forest Road, 225 2751) has no frills, just drink and live folk sessions, and Whistlebinkies (4-6 South Bridge, 557 5114) is a no-nonsense, late-night drinking den with live music. More bars cluster along Lothian Road, West End, Grassmarket and Cowgate.

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