Styrian cooking is a beacon in pork-rich Austria, its secret ingredient the dark, nutty kurbiskernöl (pumpkin-seed oil), which laces salads, bean concoctions and beef. Buy it at the exuberant farmers’ market (Kaiser-Josef-Platz, closed Sun), along with local wines and cold cuts. Chardonnay and Welschriesling from vineyards such as Tement and Polz are excellent, as is Schladminger beer.

For outdoor dining with fine views, head for Schlossberg, and Aiola (Schlossberg 2, 818 797) or Starckehaus (Schlossberg 4, 834 300). Throughout the Altstadt restaurants such as Eckstein (Mehlplatz 3, 828 701) and Stainzerbauer (Bürgergasse 4, 821 106) are strong on local cuisine, while Iohan (Landhausgasse 1, 821 312) and Meyer’s (Sackstrasse 29, 813 391) are slicker but costlier. Cheaper dining can be had at central locations such as Keplerkeller (Stempfergasse 6, 811 521) and Gambrinuskeller (Färbergasse 6-8, 810 181). The gorgeous Tribeka (Grieskai 2, 723 469) roasts its own coffee.

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