Havana is no gastro destination, let’s get that straight. But, as in all spheres where the tourist moves, Havana’s restaurant scene is steadily changing with the influx of hard currency. The real delight at many restaurants, in particular the smaller ones, is the atmosphere and this Havana does have by the truckload. Some of the best food in Havana is to be had in the privately owned paladares.

Old Havana is the epicentre of Havana’s tourist trade and some restaurants have become overly complacent as a result. However, Café del Oriente (Calle Oficios112, esquina Amargura, +5378606686) is a smart, elegant choice and La Dominica (Calle O’Reilly No.108, esquina Mercaderes, +5378602918) serves up well-executed Italian staples.

In leafier Vedado, check out paladres Le Chansonnier (Calle J 257, entre 15 y linea, +53783215760 with its French-style cooking and majestic colonial setting and the Hotels Nacional de Cuba (Calle O, esquina 21, +5372046366, www.gran-caribe.com) and Meliá Cohiba (Paseo, entre 1ra y 3ra, +537333636, www.solmelia.com) both have an array of restaurants, Cuban and international.

Upmarket Miramar and the suburbs further west are home to some of the country’s best restaurants. Expats and nouveau-riche Cubans gravitate to El Aljibe (Avenida 7na, entre 24 y 26, +5372041583) for fine Creole fare. Cuba’s gastronomic guru Tomás Erasmo also owns three classy restaurants in the western suburbs: exclusive La Finca (Calle 140, esquina 19, Cubanacán, +5372087976), El Rancho Palco (Calle 140, esquina 19, Cubanacán, +5372089346), with its upmarket jungle feel, and El Tocororo (Calle 18, esquina 3ra, Miramar, +5372042209), purveyors of fine meat and lobster.

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