The Portuguese eat much more fish than other Europeans, and we suggest you join them. Trawl Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, near Rossio, or seek out Porto de Abrigo (Rua dos Remolares 16, 213 460 873), nearer the river. Uphill, Cervejaria Trindade (Rua Nova da Trindade 20C, 213 423 506) offers prawns and steaks in a beer hall decked with tile panels.

The stylish Terreiro do Paço (Praça do Comércio, 210 312 850, www.terreiropaco.com) has posher nosh, while tightwads should visit the lunch-only ACISJF Catholic Association (Travessa do Ferragial 1, top floor, 21 324 0910, closed Sat & Sun) and its rooftop terrace. Vegetarians can find a feast at Terra (Rua da Palmeira 15, 707 108 108, www.terra.vg).

You’re spoilt for choice in the Bairro Alto, with restaurants serving everything from the national favourite, bacalhau (salt cod), to curry. It is also a bar crawler’s paradise. Classics include beery Estádio (Rua São Pedro de Alcântara 11, 213 422 716), plush Pavilhão Chinês and the gay-friendly Portas Largas (Rua da Atalaia 105, 213 466 379). Clube da Esquina (Rua da Barroca 30, 938 661 134) is one of many music-driven bars.

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