Lyon has a huge number of restaurants, ranging from well-known gastronomic temples to simple market side-stalls. Leading the new gastronomic revolution in Lyon is restaurant Nicolas le Bec (14 rue Grolée, 04 78 42 15 00, www.nicolaslebec.com). Léon de Lyon (1 rue Pléney, 04 72 10 11 12, www.leondelyon.com, closed Mon & Sun) is an institution, but we prefer the bistro annexe Le Petit Léon (3 rue Pléney, 04 72 10 11 11, lunch only). Lyon Plage (85 quai Joseph Gillet, www.lyon-plage.com, 04 72 10 44 44), a hotel and spa, has a large brasserie with a great atmosphere and serving delicate, delicious dishes.

The bouchon (a small, intimate bistro) is a Lyonnais institution. Several cluster around the Hôtel de Ville; try Café des Fédérations (8-10 rue du Major Martin, 04 78 28 26 00), Bouchon des Carnivores (8 rue des Marronniers, 04 78 42 97 69) or Le Garet (7 rue du Garet, 04 78 28 16 94) near the opera house. Note that most places close at weekends.

The Grand Café des Négociants (1 place Francisque Régaud, 04 78 42 50 05) is super-swish. For good cocktails and house DJs, visit the Bus Café (18 quai Général Serrail, 04 72 74 40 91, closed Sun), in a converted bus terminus. Another hotspot is Soviet-themed KGB (2 rue des Bons Enfants, 04 37 28 63 30, www.akgb.fr), a dinner club with a vodka bar in an old industrial building.

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