Fish here beats even mainland Portugal. Most common is peixe espada (swordfish), grilled, fried with banana or cooked com vinho e alhos (in wine and garlic). In Funchal old town, on Rua de Santa Maria, the rather pokey O Jango at No.166 (291 211 280) is a good mid-priced option for local dishes. Arsenio’s (291 224 007), opposite, offers seafood and also holds fado sessions; it is hardly authentic, but it is good fun. For meat on a spit, try A Montanha (Sítio das Neves, 291 793 182). The waterside Doca do Cavacas (Estrada Monumental, Ponta de Cruz, 291 762 057) serves excellent fresh fish.

Out in Camacha, O Abrigo do Pastor (Estrada Carreiras Vale Paraiso, 291 922 060, closed Mon) is worth a trip for its leitão (roasted piglet) and kid stew. Further uphill in Poiso, Casa do Abrigo do Poiso (291 782 269) serves espetada (grilled marinated kebabs), açorda (breadcrumbs soaked in egg and garlic) and trout.

Popular cafés are the Funchal and the Apolo, both on Rua Dr António Almeida. Try the local speciality, bolo de mel (honey cake); ‘Madeira cake’ is, in fact, a British invention.

Funchal’s bars are cosy rather than funky. Among late openers are Dó Fá Sol (Largo das Fontes, 291 241 464), which often has live music until 4am. The Golden Gate (Avenida Arriaga 21, 291 234 383) is more staid but has food until 2am.

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