New Orleans cooking combines European cuisine with locally available ingredients and African, Caribbean, Mexican and American Indian influences: the delicious result is Creole. Creole tends to mean more refined cooking, while Cajun is country food. For an old-line Creole experience, Galatoire’s (209 Bourbon Street, LA 70116, +15045252021, www.galatoires.com) is an excellent choice. For tradition combined with flair and class, try Commander’s Palace (1403 Washington Avenue, LA 70130, +15048998221, www.commanderspalace.com), one of America’s top restaurants. Newer chefs making a mark on the city’s culinary scene include John Besh at Restaurant August (301 Tchoupitoulas Street, LA 70130, +15042999777, www.rest-august.com) and Rene Bajeaux at Rene Bistrot (in Renaissance Pere Marquette Hotel, 817 Common Street, LA 70112, +15044122580, www.renebistrot.com). Emeril Lagasse, a one-man food empire, has three restaurants in New Orleans and most local foodies name Delm onico (1300 St Charles Avenue, LA 70130, +15045254937, www.emerils.com) the best. But if you’re on a budget you can eat just as well as gold-card carriers. The best places tend to be outside the French Quarter but the ageless Central Grocery (923 Decatur Street, LA 70116, +15045231620) is always reliable. Mother’s (401 Poydras Street, LA 70130, +15045239656, www.mothersrestaurant.com) in the CBD makes classic New Orleans po-boy sandwiches and Elizabeth’s (601 Gallier Street, LA 70116, +15049449272, www.elizabeths-restaurant.com) in the Bywater serves up the biggest, cheapest breakfasts in the city.

New Orleans’s bar culture is a 24-hour affair – and the range is spectacular. For 1950s sophistication, head to the revolving bar at the Carousel Bar & Lounge (214 Royal Street, LA 70116, +15045233341, www.hotelmonteleone.com) in the Hotel Monteleone. For superb jazz in a contemporary sophisticate hot spot, head for FQB (Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 921 Canal Street, LA 70112, +15045241331, www.ritz-carlton.com). In Marigny, hip d.b.a (618 Frenchmen Street, LA 70116, +15049423731, www.drinkgoodstuff.com) (see Top 5) has a great atmosphere. The boho crowd loves the cool Circle Bar (1032 St Charles Avenue, LA 70130, +15045882616) (see Top 5) while socialites gather at Loa (International House Hotel, 221 Camp Street, at Gravier Street, LA 70130, +15045539550, www.ihhotel.com).

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