Christened ‘Terra Magica' by the Romans, small, triangular Istria feels separate from the rest of Croatia. From the early 1800s to World War II, Italian was its official language. Older locals speak Italian, place names have an Italian equivalent and street signs are often dual language. Istria has its own, celebrated gastronomy, its own wines and olive oils.

The Romans ruled here from 177 BC, creating a capital in Pula at Istria's southern tip. Still the main administrative centre, Pula's superb Roman remains include a well-preserved amphitheatre, arch, floor mosaic and Forum, all from the same era, all in the city centre. Between the Romans and the Habsburgs, Pula diminished to a minor port of a few hundred citizens. Industrialised under the Austrians, who built an arsenal here in 1856, it passed into Italian hands in 1918 and was heavily bombed by the Allies in World War II. Industrialised again under Tito, it saw a rise in package tourism in purpose-built hotels outside town.

The must-see attraction is the amphitheatre (Flavijevska, 052 219 028). Its outer walls are remarkably preserved, and a wonderful backdrop for the film festival and big-name concerts that take place here every summer. Inside is a bit of a mess, but you do get a sense of the gladiatorial contests held here until AD 400, particularly when you go down to the corridors on the sea-facing side where the lions were kept. Through a long tunnel lined with Roman masonry, you'll now find a few displays about olive oil production and a rather detailed map of Via Flavia, which connected Pula with Trieste.

The second of the Roman attractions stands at the south-east entrance to the town centre. The Arch of the Sergians, or Golden Gate, was built in 30 BC. Its most notable aspects are the reliefs of grapes and winged victories on the inner façade. Passing through the arch and past the statue of James Joyce, marking where the author taught in 1904-05, you walk down the Roman-era high street, the Sergijevaca. It leads to the heart of Pula, the Roman mosaic and Forum, and Temple of Augustus. The mosaic dates to the second century AD and has geometric motifs representing the twins Amphion and Zethos. Alongside is the Forum, still the main square, today lined with cafés.

Pula's main two religious buildings, the Gothic-style Franciscan church and the cathedral, a Renaissance façade built on a Roman temple, are set near the Forum, below the centrepiece Fortress (Kastel). Towards the old Roman wall is the Archaeological Museum of Istria (Carrarina 3, 052 218 603, www.mdc.hr/pula), with many local Illyrian and Roman finds.

Tourist information: Forum 3 (052 219 197, www.pulainfo.hr).