Rijeka has working-men's konobas around the harbour and market, busy at late-morning brunch, a few reasonable places by the Korzo and the panoramic Trsatika (Setaliste J Rakovca 33, 051 217 455) up in Trsat. The best table in town is the Municipium (Trg Rijecke rezolucije 5, 051 213 000), set in a grand Habsburg-era building in a quiet courtyard right in the centre of town.

Trendy cafés now line the Riva. The Korzo and its continuation of Ante Starcevica also contain a number of chic venues. All are best enjoyed after dark.

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