If you want to bask in the lap of luxury, not to mention the heart of the action, try the spanking new Grand Hyatt (6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku, +81343331234, www.grandhyatttokyo.com, Roppongi station, exits 1, 3. ¥46,000-¥53,000). Staying at a ryokan (a Japanese-style inn) is one of the best ways to enhance your enjoyment of Tokyo. Kimi Ryokan (2-36-8 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku +81339713766, www.kimi-ryokan.jp, Ikebukuro station, exit C6 or west exit. ¥6,500-¥7,500) is one of the friendliest – and although facilities are communial, they’re very clean (there’s even a Japanese bath available for use at set times). Further out of the centre is the Homeikan Honkan/Daimachibekkan ryokan (5-10-5 Hongo, Bunkyo ku, Honkan +81338111181 / Daimachibekkan +8138111186, www1.odn.ne.jp/homeikan/info_e.html, Kasuga station, exits A5, A6 or Hongo-sanchome station, exit 2 or Hongo-nichome exit. ¥11,000-¥13,000), which offers old-world atmosphere and the full Japanese experience.

Cheap and very cheerful is the Ryokan Sawanoya (2-3-11 Yanaka, Taito-ku, +81033822 2251, www.tctv.ne.jp/members/sawanoya, Nezu station, exit 1. ¥8,800-¥9,400); lovably eccentric is the charming Hilltop Hotel (1-1 Kanda Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku, +81332932311, www.yamanoue-hotel.co.jp, Ochanomizu station, Ochanomizubashi exit, ¥22,000-¥25,000). Finally, the luxurious Meridien Grand Pacific (2-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81355006711, www.htlpacific.co.jp/english/grand_pacific.html, Daiba station, ¥31,000-¥46,000 double) may lack location (it’s on the island area of Odaiba) but its fabulous night-time panoramas over Rainbow Bridge, Odaiba and the waterfront are second to none.

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