According to the latest official survey, in 2001, there are around 300,000 places that serve food in Tokyo, ranging from the humblest street stall to some of the world’s most exclusive, and expensive, restaurants.

For Buddha-like contemplation, Daigo (2-4-2 Atago, Minato-ku, +81334310811, Kamiyacho station, exit 3) offers an elegant slice of Japanese traditional cuisine in peaceful surroundings. For the full Bladerunner experience – that’s little open-air eateries wedged into tiny spaces – Yurakucho Under the Tracks (2-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, no phone, Yurakucho JR station, Hibiya or Ginza exit) makes for a cheap night’s entertainment and a quintessential Japanese experience.

For stunning interior design, try Daidaya (8-5 Ginza Nine No.1 Bldg 2F, Ginza-Nishi, Chuo-ku, + 81355373566, www.chanto.com/matome/restaurant/dai.html, Shinbashi JR station, Ginza exit). The food is good too – a confident, modern twist on traditional staples of Japanese cuisine.

British chef Jamie Oliver has created the menu at the upmarket Chiyoda-Ku branch of Afternoon Tea Baker & Diner (2-3-6 Ginza, Chiyoda-ku, +81351591635, www.afternoon-tea.net/shop_event/b_diner/index.html, Ginza-Itchome station, exit 4). It’s light and airy, and the food – which fuses local Japanese ingredients with western standards – is great.

Hyakunincho Yataimura (2-20-25 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku-ku, +81353863320, Shin-Okubo station) offers the full-on Asian experience (complete with menu hawkers) and is one of the most fun places in town.

Ace places for outdoor dining include Roti (1F Piramide Bldg, 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku, +81357853671, www.rotico.com, Roppongi station, exits 1, 3) – a superior American restaurant that’s great for weekend brunch – and the leafy glades of the Terrace Restaurant, Hanezawa Garden (3-12-15 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, +81334002013, www.thehanezawagarden.com/eng).

The best-selling form of alcohol in Japan is beer (almost invariably lager). Japan’s major brewers Kirin, Asahi, Suntory and Sapporo are recognised the world over, but in recent years there has been an explosion in local microbrews. Japanese saké is rice wine, and connoisseurs exist here in much the same way as they do in the west.

Isakaya’s are traditionally Japanese, and draw the line between bar and restaurant. Hibiki (Caretta Shiodome 46F, 1-8-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, +81362158051, www.dynac-japan.com/hibiki/tenpo/karetta.html, Shiodome station Yurikamome or Toei Oedo lines) is a good example, with great food and even better views. The eccentric and welcoming Kagaya (B1F, 2-15-12 Shinbashi, Minato-ku +81335912347/Shinbashi JR station, Karasumori exit) offers country-themed drinks. The 1930s Lion Beer Hall – part of the Sapporo Lion chain – is a tourist attraction in itself, and has a tiled, wood panelled interior. The genial Ieyasu Hon-jin (1-30 Kanda Jinbocho, Chiyoda-ku, +81332916228, Jinbocho station, exit A7) is also recommend for its excellent food, beer and saké.

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