The best stomping ground for music bars and late-night restaurants is along the fondamenta Misericordia in Cannaregio. The Iguana (041 713 561, closed Mon) serves Mexican food, has live music, friendly staff and stays open late. Cantina Vecia Carbonera (rio terà Maddalena, Cannaregio, 041 710 376) is a cool bacaro along the Strada Nuova. A hip new bar-restaurant, Centrale (piscina Frezzeria, San Marco, 041 296 0664, closed Tue), just steps from piazza San Marco, has a futuristic design but is anachronistically housed in a 16th-century shell. Campo Santa Margerita offers more mainstream fun with cafés and bars. In general, party animals might be better off leaving the Grand Canal and heading to the numerous bars and late-night discos on the Strand at the Lido.

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