Sadly, many of Venice’s restaurants are expensive and touristy. That said, it is still possible to eat well, but you will have to look around, avoiding the main tourist thoroughfares. If money is no object, opt for Da Fiore (San Polo 2202, calle del Scaleter, 041 721 308, www.dafiore.com), considered Venice’s best for its creative renditions of local seafood dishes. If you object to spending large sums of money, visit the more modestly priced Fiore trattoria (calle delle Botteghe, San Marco, 041 523 5310, closed Tue), which offers a fine taste of Venice’s seafood tradition. Corte Sconta (calle del Pestrin, Castello, 041 522 7024, closed Mon) also has delicious seafood and outdoor seating under a canopy of vines. At Giorgione (via Garibaldi 1533, 041 522 8727, closed Wed), in the depths of Castello, owner Lucio sings his heart out most nights. For great pizza try Al Nono Risorto (sottoportico di Siora Bettina, Santa Croce, 041 524 1169); the open-air courtyard is blissful in summer (but bring mosquito repellent). New for 2006 is Orange (campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro, 041 523 4740, www.orangebar.it), a trendy restaurant and bar with terrace seating. The bar is lively and open until late; the cocktails are inventive and the finger food is affordable.

When drinking is more important than eating, locals dive into a bacaro, the wine-only Venetian equivalent of a pub, where a series of little snacks (tapas-like cichètti) are on offer to patrons. A good choice is Osteria alla Botte (campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco, 041 520 9775). Harry’s Bar (calle Vallaresso, San Marco, 041 528 5777), of Hemingway and Orson Welles fame, may be a little on the pricey side, but still claims to make the best Bellini in town. Another infamous tourist haunt is the Caffè Florian in St Mark’s Square, founded in 1720. Sitting on the piazza, listening to the orchestra, it’s easy to imagine Casanova working the tables, searching for a beautiful contessa to seduce. Dive-bombing pigeons and an army of tired tourists quickly dispel such fantasies.

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